I got mine from Northern Tool. Cost less than a $100. It's like a heavy duty older car bumber jack, sits on a metal plate, one post comes up from the plate and a jack mechanism goes up and down the post. There is a metal finger on the jack mechanism that matches up well with brackets on the end of my skids that I jack my house with. They have two different priced ones there of this style. An employee said the cheaper one was a poorer quality metal and to buy the better one. Which I did. This is my first year with a ice house but so far its worked well.
When I first asked what type of jack to buy Jason ( from Hunter's ) suggested a railroad jack. I couldn't find one. If you can find one I believe they are very heavy duty and would lift any ice house. I have no idea how much they would cost.
Isle Discount Supply, the lumber yard across the street from Portside Bait also makes a lifting bracket for skids. It mounts on the side of the skid, has holes punched for mounting and a hole for the jack. Its a simple design made from angle iron. These are not jacks, just simple brackets for a jack to hook up to and lift the house. If you don't have good lifting points on your house you may want to look into something like these.
Other more experienced people here may have better suggestion for you.
Be very carefull with those hi lift jacks on ice they can hurt ya if they kick out on ya.I use a track jack but they are hard to find.A hydraulic rolling car jack also works very well and a lot safer.
Ditto to what 2050Skeeter said.. We used to call our Hi Lift jack the "widow maker".....very dangerous. It slipped on the ice once and punched a hole in our shack....counted our fingers and we threw it away the next day. Borrowed a railroad jack which was the ticket for a while then we bought a low profile floor jack that worked very well.
-- Edited by Tyeee on Thursday 28th of January 2010 06:55:15 AM
We have a 10 x 20 house with a steel frame and runners. We welded in 4 jacks that are used to jack up trailers off of hitches on each corner of the house. They have about a six inch stroke with a ratio of something like 20 turns of the crank per inch so jacking takes a while but requires very little strength. We love them.
We popped some nails thru a 12"x 12" piece of wood and stamped it into the ice before we set the jack down. Seemed to hold much better but that thing still spooked us.
Another thought for blocking house. I have 10 x 16 with steel runners. I welded 5000 lb trailer tongue jacks ( a little over kill ) on each corner of house. One person can block the house in about 15 min. Totally safe. no slippage.
OOPS I see skibob already gave you this advise. disregard
-- Edited by Sweetlips on Monday 1st of February 2010 08:24:06 AM
Wow! Sorry jd. Looks like I gave you bad advise. Tyeee, Skeeter is there anything I can do to minimze the slipping? What's a track jack?
You didnt really give bad advice a lot of guys use those Hi lift jacks.But you have to be very careful with them.Problem is if you try to jack the house up to much at a time and the jack leans and kicks out.
Track jack and what some guys call a railroad jack are the same.Kind of hard to explain but a lot of the resorts use them.Maybe someone here has a pic of one.Not sure who sells these but someone here might know.Something like a 5 ton hydraulic low profile rolling car jack are cheaper and also work very well and are nice to have in the garage at home.I have both and actually the hydraulic car jack is probably faster and easier to use but you have to have 4-5 inches of clearance to start to get it under your hoause.A track jack only needs a couple inches of clearance.
I have been reading through this post and saw where a couple folks talk about welding on trailer tongue jacks on each corder of their fish house. Does anyone know if someone around the Mille Lacs area does this? I am looking to have this done to my 12'x24' ice house. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.